Zulu Seed Bead Anklets Dori Collection

Zulu beadwork has been valued as currency, as decoration, and as a marker of identity. Disingwayo the uncle of Shaka and Shaka himself, controlled the bead trade and monopolized not only the beads themselves but also the colors and designs available to groups within Shaka's control. Beadwork became a status symbol and an important item of personal expression as well. Stylistic variations of beadwork such as pattern, color and color sequence indicate area or group affiliation. Colors and patterns take on more personally expressive meanings as in the case of Zulu “love letters.” Recently beadwork has become a symbol of political identity as well, with color and pattern indicating political affiliation. Instead of beads being worn only by the conservative, traditional members of the community, wearing beadwork is increasingly being seen as reclaiming a cultural identity.

ANKLETS

Zulu anklets are typically worn for special occasions and ceremonies. It is more popular for women to wear beaded anklets but men have been known to wear them as well.

Zulu Anklet decorations (amadavethi) are worn with leg decorations by the brides. Amadavathi comes from the word "dava-dava"which means ‚ to walk slowly.

Idavati (plural Amadavathi)/Anklet decoration (s). From the Eshowe area, Kwa-Zulu Natal. This kind of anklet decorations used by young brides during the wedding ceremony symbolizes that she got married when she was still a virgin. The making of this anklet is the same style on the front apron called Isigege or Udidla that the bride was wearing before she got involved with the man.

These are from the collection of Dori Angus Verhoeg from Mbabane, Eswatini. Dori was a beloved friend of ours. We met her in 1994 when we lived in Southern Africa, driving around with our three youngest children in a used camper van. We met Dori at the wonderful gallery she ran, Indiglizi. She died several years ago, and her children, Anthony and Sonia Angus made her collection available to us when they closed the gallery this year due to COVID.

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